Thursday, July 3, 2008

30th June - 4th July - Madrid, Spain

29th/30th 13 hr flight from Santiago to Madrid. We shared 3 seats so were able to lie down for some of the flight. We arrived in Madrid to a sultry 35°c. The airport information was very helpful in getting us to our hotel. We caught 3 trains and ended up only 50m from our hotel. We went for a walk down to Plaza del Emperador Carlos V looking for a bank. We then walked back up our street and in the other direction where we had dinner on Plaza de Benavente at around 9pm and it was still very light. We walked down to Plaza Mayor after dinner and took a few photos. ourThe sun went down at around 10pm. We found an internet cafe to print out the Madrid walking tours we had stored on our memory stick then headed back to the hotel.

1st - We woke at around 10am to another hot 35°c day. We had breakfast and quick showers and headed off on the first of our walking tours - Old Madrid. The tour started at Plaza de la puerta de Sol which is the geographic centre of Spain. Our first stop was at a little café Chocolateria de San Gines where we sampled a hot chocolate and David had his with churros. We then walked to Plaza Mayor, and many other pointes of interest. Including this garden next to the Royal Palace

We had lunch at around 3pm in a little restaurant then found a park to have a lie down in. We set off again around 5pm after taking this shot back at the Palace and the Cathedral.
We headed up along Gran via past theatres, shops and lots of traffic. The final stop on our walk was Plaza de la Cibeles and the ornate Palacio de Comunications. We had Tapas for dinner on the sidewalk outside a bar near Plaza de Emperador Carlos V.

2nd - 10am wake up again this morning. This walk (Artistic walk of Madrid) started a little further away so we caught the Metro 5 stations to Bilbao. The walk said to start with a coffee in the Café commercial, so Catriona obliged. Our first stop was a plaza with outdoor sculptures. We took a couple of photos and headed off again down Paseo de la Castellana, walking through the centre under the shade of the trees. We made it to Plaza Santa Ana for lunch of paella mixta. We then headed off to the Prado. We found out it was free after 6pm so decided to check out the Parque del buen retiro. We had fun walking through the many shaded, hedge lined walkways.
We stopped to see Alfonzo XII mausoleum, Palacio de Valasquez and the Crystal Palace (below) which was once a green house but is now an exhibition centre.
We stopped to have a siesta here as well, then set off to view the old city gate (see it at the end of this garden bed David is standing in front of) We headed off back to the Prado where we viewed many paintings from the 12th - 15th century. There was also an exhibition of paintings by Goya. After we had finished at the gallery we walked back to Plaza Santa Ana for a wine, some beer and a plate of olives and pig fat! We didn´t realise that is what it was when we ordered it. 3rd - Todays walk was pick of the plazas. Only 28° today. We started off by walking to Plaza Lavapiés from there we headed all over Madrid city centre. We stopped off just outside Plaza Mayor at this café for a coke and a coffee. Then off again all over the city finishing at Plaza de Chueca the gay capital of Madrid, where they were getting ready for some kind of festivities, mayge something like Sydney´s gay and lesbian mardi gras. We had a very late lunch at around 5pm and spent the rest of the evening bar hopping.




Friday, June 27, 2008

24th - 27th June - Easter Island

Had an overnight flight from Quito to Santiago via Guayaquil. The flight was very turbulent the whole way. Had a rush to get from International to domestic as the night flight had been delayed due to bad weather in Guayaquil. We found when we arrived in Santiago we had to pay $61USD each to enter the country, plus another $50 in airport tax. What a rip off. We made it to the Easter Island flight and it was great. We had a nice new Boeing 767 with personal monitors and games consoles. The flight was smooth and went like a breaze. We arrived at around 12pm and checked into a dodgey guest house called Apina Tupuna, with magnificent ocean views. We walked to the town centre past the harbour where we saw our first Moai. We had lunch on the side of the road cafe. After lunch we walked to Tahai Moai complex and Ahu Ko Te Riku . We picked up a dog along the way that followed us around everywhere being our "guide dog". We also visited the museum, which was very interesting. In the evening we had a few beers/shandies watching the sun set over the water.

25th We headed off on the Te Ara O Te Ao trail to Orongo that took us to Rano Kau, the big volcano. Our first stop was the standing Moai at boat harbour called Hanga Piko. We then walked to a cave to view rock paintings and then to Manavai exhibition gardens, to see how they used to grow their plants inside rock circles. We passed through grass lands and eucalypt forest with good views back to Hanga Roa and up to the creater of the volcano. From the volcano it was a short walk to Orongo where we paid our $10USD to walk around the ancient birdman site. There was a complex of 54 restored stone houses in the ceremonial village and also petroglyphs which were carved into the rocks during the ceremonies. We ate lunch at a restaurant on the way back at around 4pm, stopped by the supermarket to buy some water and headed back to our room for the evening.

26th It was windy and raining all night but when we finally woke in the morning it was just howling wind. We decided to hire a car for 24 hours to see the other Moai around the island. The first sight of the day was Ahu Vinapu, being the site of 3 Ahu(platforms), near the airport runway. One of the Ahu has perfectly laid stone like in Cusco and Machu Pichu. It started to rain heavily, with gale force winds as we visited the ruins of Hanga Hahave, Hanga Poukura and Hanga Te'e. We got absolutely drenched through our "water proof ponchos", but we were not fazed and still managed to take a few photos. We then drove to Rano Raraku, the stone quarry where all the Moai were carved. We were amazed to see how many were cut from the side of the hill, there was even a 20m one joined to the volcanic substrate. We also saw a kneeling Moai called Tukuturi. The weather started to clear again and we could see Ahu Tongariki in the distance, being 15 reconstructed Moai, ranging from 5.6m to 8.7m high. We drove to Tongariki and took a few photos and a video

and also found some petroglyphs on the ground thanks to a French tour guide, who we followed around after that. We then went to the largest statue placed on a platform, 10m high, 85 ton Moai Paro. Here we touched the navel of the world that was brought to the island by Hotu Matu'a (the King who colonised the island). We next saw the 5 restored Moai Nau Nau at the white sandy beach. These all have pukao (top knots) and are decorated with petroglyphs on their backs. In the late afternoon we drove back through the middle of the island to Puna Pau, a secondary creater used as a quary for the top knots, then on to Ahu Akiui where we saw 7 moai that were restored in 1960.From there it was on to the underground garden and back along the coast where it started to pour down with rain again. We were dry at the time, but had one more photo to take of Kote Pu Hake Niai Mako'i. We got absolutely saturated again and had to head back to the hotel to change.We went out to dinner and also took a night shot of Hango Piko, who was lit up.A huge day considering the weather. We had a great day.

27th Had set the alarm to see sunrise over Tongariki but woke to howling wind and torrential rain, so went back to sleep until 8am. We had breakfast and returned the car and update the blog. The weather cleared and we were able to go for another walk to see the inland Ahu Huri A Urenga, an important astronomical marker with 11 spots related to the solstices and equinoxes. The Moai there has 4 hands.

Saturday, June 21, 2008

16th - 23rd June - Quito & the Amazon Jungle

Had a 4 hour bus drive in our private mini van, being our final bus journey of the tour, to Quito. (that everyone on the tour agreed to pay extra for to arrive safely). Excellent trip at a normal speed. We noticed public buses swerving around corners, zooming past us only for us to overtake them when they stopped to pick up or drop off passengers along the route. We checked into the hotel and went for a walk through a couple of large parks and the old town. We tried to book accomodation at Hotel San Francisco de Quito for 2 nights after our tour finished, but it was booked out, so we ended up booking into the Chicago Hostal instead. We had lunch at Govindas a large soup, lentils, rice and salad and a fruit drink, for $1.60 each. In the evening we packed for our jungle expedition as we were only allowed a small day pack.



17th Headed off for the airport for our short flight to Colca. We boarded a 70 seat Focker F-28 jet for the 25 minute flight over the Andes to the Amazon Basin. With these small planes they have to calculate the weight for the atmospheric conditions, the temperature increased markedly from the time of everyone checking in to when we were due to take off so they had to get someone to volunteer to get off the plane.


The flight was good, only a little turbulance when we were above the mountains in the clouds. We were picked up at the airport by a big open bus and taken to the dock where we caught a motorised longboat for a two hour cruise down the Napo river. The river was murky brown and flowed very fast, there were many logs and other debris in the water that the driver had to navigate around. The river was very wide, around 400m, but only a couple of metres deep. When we arrived at the shore we had a 15 minute walk along a slipery moss covered boardwalk made of bamboo,then a ride in a long canoe to reach the La Selva jungle lodge. We were greeted with a tropical fruit drink and nibbles of cheese and biscuits, empanadas, salami & chicken pieces. We were then shown to our lodges (Huts built from palm and bamboo).
This is our hut which had a warm shower and two beds with mosquito nets and a hammock on the veranda. We had a trip on the lake in the afternoon on a long canoe looking for wildlife. We saw a few birds and they showed us the cats claw plant used in herbal medicine. The highlight of the trip was to watch the squirel monkeys having their last feed for the day on their way to their nights resting spot. They were jumping from tree to tree and some of the smaller ones missed their targets and did a bit of a free fall to catch a lower branch. Unfortunately the battery in my camera died and I did not have the spare with me. After dinner we did a night time insect walk around the gardens. We saw insects, frogs, a snake and a couple of huge tarantulas, this one was bigger than our hands.

18th 6am wake up call for breakfast at 6.30am. We set off on the long canoe at 7am for our walk to the native house.

We had a 30 minute walk through the jungle along the river bank. We say many pretty flowers, ferns and fungi. We also encountered a 1metre long poisonous snake that the native guide had to pin down with a stick he had made a little V at the end of, so we could pass.
At the house our guide picked a cocoa pod and we all had a taste of the fruit inside. The seeds are what they make cocoa out of. Catriona bit hers in half to have a look and it was purple. The father who lives in the house with his wife and some of his 9 children (the older ones are married and have their own huts on the property) was in the hut making a fishing net, he stopped when we arrived and we all introduced ourselves. We were given a taste of the drink they have in the morning to give them energy. It was made from alcohol and a mixture of plants that our guide said was like natural red bull. We then painted each others faces. See Davids art work on Catriona.
We were then show how they catch the animals with a blow gun and were all given a go. Amanda was the only one in the group who managed to hit the target which was a cocoa pod about 10 metres away.The father of the house is wearing the blue cap and holding the darts. We caught a motor canoe back to the dock where we walked back along the bamboo walkway and were paddled back to our accommodation . We then lay around in hammocks until lunch as it was very hot and humid. After lunch we again rested and at 3pm we went for a walk to the butterfly farm. We were shown all stages of the production from the eggs to the larve, catapillers and finally the butterflies.
After dinner we went for a night canoe to try to spot Camen but as the water level was so high they were hiding closer the the banks under the bushes. We did however spot a very large snake high in the branches of a tree and a frog on our canoe.

19th 5.30 am wake up call for 6am breakfast. This shot is of the lake at 6am.
After breakfast we went for a walk in the jungle to a observation tower built around a huge tree. The platform is 35metres high, the tree being 45metres is approximately 200 years old.
We had 360 degree view, giving us a fantastic view of the jungle canopy below. We were able to see many birds from our vantage point. Some of the birds we took photos of were the golden collared toucanet, yellow tuffted woodpecker, plumbeous pigeon, grey capped fly catcher and the forktailed wood nymph (humming bird) below.
We also saw many other birds including toucans and macaws. After a couple of hours bird watching we went on another walk through the jungle. Our guide pointed out interesting trees and ferns showing us the different medicinal plants along the way. Many of the plants are now commercially produced by drug companies. A group of small squirell monkeys and capouchian (not sure of the spelling) monkeys passed by overhead high in the tree canopy. We then rested again before and after lunch as it was another hot day and in the afternoon we went on another jungle walk where we met tarzan and took a picture, see below.
When we got back Catriona went for a dip in the lake with the piranhas and anacondas. Maren actually caught a piranha and had it for dinner.

20th 5am wake up call as we had to catch a 10am flight back to Quito. Our powerboat ride took a couple of hours as we were going up stream and the water level had dropped considerably from our journey down leaving many exposed sandbanks. The driver at one point had to double back to find deeper water. The flight back was smooth and the landing was good. Had lunch at a place near our hotel $1.50 each for soup, main, desert and drink, what a bargain. In the afternoon we caught a taxi with Gui and Victoria to the equator. Very touristy where we had fun taking pictures of the two of us standing either side of the equator line and also straddling it.

We had our final group dinner at Q resteraunt and bar. We had a few tapas dishes, our mains and some coctails/ beers. We said fairwell to Julio and everyone at around midnight and walked back to the hotel with Gui and Victoria.

21st Saw Gui, Victoria and Julio at breakfast and said our farewells again. We went to a camping shop and purchased a few pairs of hiking socks before checking out of our hotel and catching a taxi to our new hostel. We then went for a walking tour of the old town to take some photos. Our first stop was San Francisco Plaza and Church which is being renovated. Next was the cathedral where there was a baptism taking place. We walked to the Plaza Grande and the Presidential palace where the guards are dressed in little soldier costumes (like the nutcracker).
We then walked the unfinished Basilica. We bought our tickets for $2 thinking we had to pay to go inside the Basilica, however the ticket was to climb the tower. We climed to the top of the bell tower, where 1/2 way up there was a cafe that we stopped at and Catriona had a hot chocolate and David had a beer. We also walked across through the roof cavity of the basilica to climb the steeple.
It was quite scary on some of the ladders.
We were absolutely amazed at the places we were allowed to go and the excellent views of Quito we had. For dinner we caught a local bus back to where we had been the previous night. We went to the Vino i Tapas restaurant and had the $16 all you can eat and drink menu.

22nd We went for another walk around the old town to try to have our photos burnt to DVD, however being Sunday almost everything was closed. We caught a local bus to the Quicentro shopping mall to try to find Catriona some joggers however they only had up to size 9 and she takes 9.5, so no luck. It was raining when we left the mall so we got wet getting back to the hostel.

23rd Last day in Quito. We woke to a sunny blue sky so decided to go to the telerifico (Cable car). We checked out of the hostel and caught an electric bus to Santa Clara stop and tried to walk up to the base station. We stopped to ask directions and were told it would take 2 hours and we would be better off getting a cab. We managed to hail a cab and found that we had been walking in the wrong direction. While waiting in line for the car we chatted to an American guy from Los Angeles, who´s wife was from Ecuador. As usual half way up the car stopped and we were left swinging for about a minute.
At the top the clouds started to roll in, but we had a few sunny breaks as well.
Headed back down and walked back to the area we originally stayed in and had all our cards burnt to a DVD. On the way we stopped at McDonalds for lunch, reminded us of McDowells from comming to America.
Catriona had a wash, cut and blowdry for $5 USD, what a bargain.
We walked back through the park
and arrived back at the hostel where we had left our bags at around 5pm, picked up our bags and headed off to the airport. Found internet kiosk at the airport to update the blog.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

12th - 15th June - Cuenca & Baños, Ecuador

Left Mancora for our 8 hour bus trip to Cuenca, including the boarder crossing into Ecuador. We were told this was one of the worst crossings in South America so we had braced ourselves. We had a private mini bus that was supposed to drop us off at the boarder and we were to walk about 200m through a very busy street to the Ecuadorian bus stop to pick up a local bus to take us to Cuenca. We were very lucky though as the mini bus driver and a few locals on the street convinced the police officer to let us though in the bus, which took us right to the bus station. The troubles started here though. We had 1 minute for 9 of us to use the toilets and Catriona being last had to run to make the bus as it had started to leave without her. The next 5 hours were the trip from hell. The driver thought he was in a rally car and as such we had the most &%%$*** (terrible) bus ride of our lives. At one stage David jumped up and asked our tour leader if he could get off the bus and make his own way! As you can see we did make it to Cuenca unlike the 5 British girls who died in a bus accident in Ecuador in April.

When we arrived we were very shaky and not feeling the best. We settled into our rooms and then headed out for dinner. We arrived during happy hour so that made us feel a little better after Catriona had a pina colada and David had a local beer.

13th Spent the day relaxing, trying to get over yesterdays bus journey. We had a wander around the town. Checked out the Cathedral where there were a group of people praying and singing while the host was on display. The stained glass windows were beautiful and the alter was another big gold display.
14th We were dreading the bus journey today. We had a 6.40am departure from our hotel so we were up at 5.45am. We had to catch 2 buses today, the first one was a 7 hour journey and the second only 1 hour. We were very surprised to find that this bus driver did not think he was a rally car driver, nor a formula 1 driver. We had a good trip up until lunch time, after that we found that a few people had been sick on the bus and Laura and Maren had vomit all over their bags. Also after lunch the driver drove much faster, but nothing like our previous driver. We arrived in Banos at around 4pm. We had a little walk around the town then met back at the hotel to plan our activities for the next day. We had a choice of 1/2 day rafting, 2 hours horse back riding or 1/2 day canyoning. The reason for only 1/2 day activities was that there were 2 world cup qualifying matches being played in the afternoon and no one wanted to work in the afternoon when there was a futbol/soccer game to watch.

15th 8.30am pickup for our 1/2 day of canyoning. David, Gui, Victoria, Laura and Catriona set off to be fitted out with wet suits, jackets, harnesses and shoes. We set off in a mini van to the start of the trip. The guides helped us on with our gear, and then it started to rain. We took one last shot before heading off on our journey. Unfortunately no one had a waterproof camera so we were not able to take any photos of our adventure.We started the trip by jumping 1.5m into a pool. Then we had to absail down our first waterfall. Surprisingly it was not that bad and David did it well. We then had a swim though the rapidly flowing water and a few more absails. We had to hurry as the rain started much heavier and the guides wanted us out of there before the water got much higher. The last part was supposed to be a 3 meter jump into a pool but we ended up absailing down to make it quicker and safer. We walked back up past a trout farm to a restaurant where we had freshly caught BBQ trout for lunch. We headed back into Banos to watch Paraguay beat Brazil 2-0 ane Ecuador and Argentina have a 1 all draw.