Tuesday, June 3, 2008

3rd - 7th June Nasca - Lima

Arrived in Nasca at around 6am. Headed straight for the hotel and a couple of hours sleep. Woke at around 10.30am, had breakfast and a look around the hotel which is around 15min. car ride from the town. Updated the blog and headed in to Nasca for lunch and a look around, then back to the hotel to play monopoly and drink Nasca Pisco and coca cola while playing Monopoly with Gui and Charles.
Gui thrashed us all.
Dinner of vegetable soup in the hotel restaurant before packing again and off to bed.

4th Headed off to view the Nasca lines on our way to Paracas.
We stopped of at an oasis where the others went on a dune buggy ride and sandboarding. David and Cat had a relaxing time walking around the lagoon and watching people try to sandboard.
After lunch it was off to Paracas for the night. We arrived at around 6pm, dropped our bags off at the hotel then back into the town where we had dinner at a seaside restaurant.

5th Next morning we were booked in to do a trip to the Ballestas islands to see some more Nasca lines. The trip was cancelled as the harbour had been closed because of a mini sunami caused by an offshore tremor. We set off for Lima at 10am and arrived at around 1pm. We had lunch at a little local place where we had a huge fruit salad, a jug of juice and a caserole with rice for 6 soles. Catriona bought her 4th pair of sunglasses for the trip as she had broken the arm off yet another pair. We found a supermarket and did a little shopping for a dinner of cheese, turkey, cabanosi, wine & beer in our room.


6th Felt like having a Max and Lee day today so we left our room at around 11am, had a little walk around, found a nice little diner selling Peruvian food. This time the menu was 3 courses and a drink. We chose a potato bake with guacomole for starters, chicken, chips, rice and salad for main and a jelly type desert, with a jug of chicha each. We were so full after lunch we had to go back to the room for a siesta. We met the others in the foyer at 8pm for the boys (Asher, Charles and Max) last meal with us.

7th Woke this morning at around 7am. We were getting ready for breakfast when we felt the building shake for about 5 to 10 seconds. It was the biggest movement either of us has ever experienced in a tremor before. After breakfast we went for a walk down to have a look at the ocean. There was a large mall there so we had a bit of a look around before heading back to the hotel to check out. Julio met us and took us to another part of lima where we were able to walk around the Plaza and have a look at the outside of the cathedral. (It was closed so we couldn´t look inside). We also visited a Franciscan monestary and its catacombes. We saw many, many bones down there. We also walked around the palace, now the government buildings. Then waited around for our 2nd last night bus.

30th May - 2nd June - Arequipa, Colca Canyon

Woke this morning to another street parade. Had breakfast before going out to watch. We headed to the airport at 11am for our 2pm flight. The flight was in 2 stages and I am sure you will know how happy David was about that. The first one was from Cusco to Juliaca and lasted around 30 minutes, it was a little bumpy. The second flight to Araquipa lasted around 30 minutes as well, but was a much better flight. Dropped our bags off at the hotel and headed out for dinner at a chinese/peruvian resteraunt. David and I both ate a huge meal and a jug of the local drink for 10 Soles.


31st - Departed Arequipa for our 2 day excursion to the Colca Canyon. Headed out on the main road north passing 2 volcanoes Misti and Chachani. We headed out into the National Reserve of Salinas & Aguada blanca and quickly ascended to 4,000m. We stopped off for some coca tea to help with the altitude. We also stopped along the way to take photos of Vicuña, alpaca and llama, a nearly frozen lagoon with a few ducks and geese. We also stopped to try to find the native rabit sunning itself on rocks.
This we managed to do before it noticed us and bounded away. They have quite a long tail, unlike ordinary rabits. We stopped for a buffet lunch in Chivay, had a walk around the square and visited the church where there was a large pipe organ with wooden pipes. Finally arrived at our hotel for the next 2 nights, had a rest and then set off for a walk into the surrounding hillside to view pre inca grave sites. The bones were clearly visible and you could see the deformities that wrapping the childrens heads to make them look like the gods had created. (See the skulls in the new Indiana Jones movie).
After dinner David went back to the room as he was not feeling well and Catriona stayed up to play a couple of games of backgammon with Gui, which she wone 2 out of 3 games.

1st - 5.30am wake up today to get to the Colca Canyon to see the Andean condors. The Colca Canyon is the deepest in the world, we viewed it from the top. We made it to the condor cross which is the best place to view the condors, we were not dissapointed. We had an hour there watching first one then six of them soaring around overhead looking for food. We both managed to get many good photos of the condors. We then had a walk along the cliff edge to another viewpoint where we had a group photo. Headed back to Chivay for lunch, stopping off in Maca where we visited a colonial church that had been rebuilt after 1998 earthquake. In the evening we headed off to the thermal pools for a dip and a drink of Colca sour, similar to pisco sour but the sour part made from a local cactus fruit instead of lemmon.
On the way we had a slow trip as all the farmers were on their way home with heards of sheep, donkeys and cows. Very nice. Lastly off to dinner at a resteraunt in Chivay where they put on a show of local dancing and music. We left just as they were starting to get audience participation going.

2nd Back to Arequipa where we arrived at around midday. We had some lunch before heading off to the Monasterio de Santa Catalina of the Santa Catalina Convent. It was started in 1579 as a convent for cloistered nuns. We spent the afternoon there wandering in and out all the little rooms, it was very interesting.
Went to the pictures in the afternoon to see the latest Indiana Jones movie then dinner and then off to the night bus to Nasca.

Thursday, May 29, 2008

22nd - 29th May - Cusco, the Inka Trail and Machu Picchu

22nd Full day bus journey through the high Altiplano region to get from Puno to Cusco. We had quite a bumpy trip with the driver swerving from side to side to avoid holes in the road. The scenery was impressive as we ventured through the mountains. We stopped at around 12pm at a pass at 4335m above sea level for a toilet break. There were a few stalls with people selling alpaca jumpers, rugs and other knick knacks. We bought his and hers alpaca jumpers Davids a dark grey and Catrionas light grey for 15 soles each.From here the journey continued along better roads. We arrived in Cuzco around 3pm, checked into the Rimacpampa Hostal and headed off to the Plaza de Armas where there was a parade for the feast of Corpus Christie. There were thousands of locals watching the parade of floats carried by the ¨lucky¨few. It was absolutely amazing for the first time in Catriona´s life she has been tall enough to see over a crowd!

23rd Spent the day walking around Cusco and visiting the Inka Museum and the Basilica Catedral. The amount of gold and silver inside the Cathederal is amazing. We saw where they stored all the floats used in the procession the previous day as well as the silver alter and the picture of the last supper where the meal was cuy or guinie pig.24th Left at 7am for the Sacred Valley and Ollantaytambo with our 6kg duffle bag for the Inka Trail hike. Our first stop was to a small village that GAP supports. Here we were shown how they dye alpaca wool using natural colours from plants etc. Catriona bought a small purse and a little Peruvian doll with a baby in its arms an one on the back. Next stop was a llama and alpaca farm where we were able to feed the llama and alpaca as well as bottle feeding the baby alpaca.Next was our first visit to an Inca site at Pisaq. Here we viewed the remaining Inca walls and amazing terraces. We stopped in the town of Pisaq for lunch and to brows through more markets. The last stop before Ollantaytambo was an Inca Bar where we were shown how they make the local drink quetcha from fermented corn. We tasted both the plain and wild strawberry sweetened versions. David also purchased the equimpent needed to construct a game of Sapo that we played there.It involves throwing coins onto a table and trying to get them into the holes or the sapo´s (frog´s) mouth. When we finally arrived in Ollantaytambo we visited the ruins there.The work that went into making them was amazing.


25th Boarded the mini bus and headed to Km 82 and the start of the 42km Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. Views of Veronica mountain in the back ground. We had to show our passports and had them stamped. We stopped for a group photo then headed over the suspension bridge and started walking under sunny skies. The track was undulating walking past the first inca ruins of the track, Qanabamba.We had our first stop at a little village where we ate our morning tea snacks. Then it was onward and upward to what the guide called dead mans pass, a very steep hill and past the second ruins of Willkarakay.We passed many more small villages and stopped for lunch of vegetable soup and grilled trout. During lunch it started to rain so we had to don our gortex jackets before continuing our climb fo the rest of the afternoon. The rain was not too heavy so we did not get too wet. We made it to our campsite at 4.15pm.There was a lady there selling Gatorade, Soft drinks and beer, so Simon and Liz decided to have a cleansing ale before dinner. We were introduced to our porters and chefs for the trip and everyone had to say how old they were, if they were married or single and what job they did.


26th Wake up call at 5.30am with a cup of hot chocolate and a bucket of warm water to wash. Quick dress and packup and set off walking by 6.30am in order to make it up to dead womans pass before it became too hot. We walked for 2 hours from our overnight camp spot of Yunkachimpa at 33oom above sea level (asl). It was quite a tough walk up about 400m on an empty stomach.We stopped for a breakfast of Quinoa Porridge and a ham,cheese and spinache omlette. Another 2 hours of tough hiking to reach dead womans pass at 4200m asl. The weather was mainly overcast with slight misty rain. This was good as we produced quite an amount of heat trudging up the steep trail getting an amazing cardio workout not only from the steepness but from the altitude as well. We regrouped at dead womans pass and had another group photo then decended for about 40 minutes to our lunch spot of Paqaymayo. The decent was very difficult on the knee and ankle joints and we were very happy we had hired the two treking poles. Lunch was soup and beef and vegetables, with a hot drink to finish off. After lunch the porters packed the dining tent up once more and headed off to our night time camping ground. We were left to hike again ascending to a peak called Runkuraqay high pass at 3900m. We stopped off at the Runkuraqay ruin where our guide Jose explained to us about it´s significance as a stopping off point on the way to Machu Picchu. From the pass we decended again on stone steps all the way to another ruin called Sayacharca. The scenery and the wildflowers were magnificent.We also had times where there was very little visibility at all as can be seen in this photo of David and Gui.We finally passed our 3rd ruin for the day, Qonchamarca,before arriving at our 2nd nights camp site. 17kms in all today on top of the 13kms the previous day. When we arrived our tents were set up and wash basins of warm water waiting for us. Everyone had afternoon tea of pastries with apple or cheese filling. The Chef made Catriona some fried potato chips so she gave him a little koala as a thank you. Dinner was soup, curry and rice and a desert of chocolate pudding. 27th Slept in until 6am this morning and had breakfast of pancakes with chocolate sauce plus bread and jam. Catriona had a fruit salad. We set off for the cloud forest at 7.30am. Great views of the surrounding mountains, including 3 snow capped peaks with glaciers as we woke to a clear morning with very few clouds. The walk today was mostly flat paths on very steep ledges through wet vegetation and moss covered walls. We walked through a natural tunnel on our way to a spectacular lookout over a large valley and the back of the Machupicchu mountain.Stopped for a couple of photos before heading down to the first ruin of the day Phuyupatamarka. This had commanding views down a valley and there were special water channels built here. Our guide told us about the significance of the Andean cross and its relevance to the Inca way of life. There are 3 levels representing the Condor, the Puma and the Snake. Also the 3 things not to be a Thief, lazy or a liar. We then proceeded to walk down almost 1000m to the next inca site called Yunkapata. This was via many steep wet stone steps that unfortunately Catriona slipped on near the top and landed on her tail bone. Yuniapata is an amazing structure of terraces with spectacular views of the valley. From here it was a short walk down to our last nights camp site where we were able to have showers and lunch before visiting another incredible site called Winaywayna and its many waterfall terraces from the temple down to the houses and buildings below.


28th Wake up call at 3.50am and packed up our gear before 4.30am breakfast. Porters were collapsing all the tents at the same time. We entered the final checkpoint on the trail at 5.30am. and hiked through the rainforest in the twilight along the at times narrow trail with high steps and steep drop offs where we finally made it to the sun gate for our first view of Machu Picchu.From here we decended further to watch the sun rise over the mountain and light up Machu Picchu. We had another group photo and were then given a tour of Machu Picchu by Jose. Gui, Vicki, Cat and David left the tour early to be able to be one of the 400 people per day to be able to hike up Waynapicchu. We waited for an our and were numbers 377 to 380. It was a tough climb up after having spent the last 3 days hiking but well worth it for the views. The climb back down in parts was much harder than going up. David and Catriona also decided to climb Huxhuypicchu wich is the smaller mountain behind the city of Machu Picchu.
We ended the day exhaused having taken many, many photos, it was a fantastic day. We took the bus down the Aguas Calientes where we had lunch and caught the train back to Ollantaytambo and a mini bus back to Cusco for a wonderful hot shower and nice warm bed.


29th Woke up this morning and sent a load of washing from the trail off to be laundered. Then off to the post office to send our 10kg package of warm clothing home. Hopefully our last package home. Met Julio back at the hotel for a tour of the Inca sites around Cusco, finishing at Sacsaywaman which is where there is a big festival in June for the Sun God, called Inti Rami. Many of the stones from this site were removed by the Spaniards to make their colonial houses but they left the larger ones as they were too large to move.

Will load more pictures when time permits.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

19th - 21st - Puno & Lake Titicaca

19th Another early start, had to be ready for 7.30am bus which took us to the Bolivian - Peru boarder. The drive was slow up and out of the creater La Paz is in. It was a 2 hour journey to the shore of lake Titicaca where we had to disembark so the bus could travel across on a barge and we caught a small boat. We drove past many small towns and rural communities. We stopped for lunch at a small town on the lake where we spent our last remaining bolivianos. We transferred to a mini bus that took us to the boarder. The boarder crossing was very easy. We swapped onto a coach that was Inca class on the Peruvian side. We arrived in Puno at around 4pm. We went for a walk to the main street and bumped into Simon and Liz, so joined them for a beer/coffee & baileys before dinner with the group at a chinese restaraunt where we shared a meal (which we could not finish) for 10 pesos. (2.76 Pesos to $1US)20th Love these early starts. Picked up by cyclos for our trip down to the harbour at 8am. We boarded our boat at around 8.30 after having bought some provisions for our host family. We then set of to Taquile Island. The people of the island have managed to maintain their way of life, living off the land and from the lake, much to the displeasure of the Peruvian government. They do not trust modern medicine and still use Shamen when they have any ills. We had 1 1/2 hours to wander the island and take photos before meeting in the main square for lunch.. We had lunch of quinoa and vegetable soup and grilled trout with rice and chips for $15 Pesos. Excellent meal. We then set off to the peninsula where we had our home stay. When we arrived a delegation met us at the jetty. We were walked up to the school followed by a band playing drums and recorders. We were split up into twos and threes to go to different families. We stayed with a family with three children, one boy and two girls. Went back to the school yard where the locals challenged us to a game of football. David thought we were a good chance (because most of us have played football/soccer before) but even at 7 on our side to 5 on theirs they thrashed us over 10 to 5.David in orange running after the ball. We were given local traditional garments to wear to a party the locals put on for us. We had a fantastic time first watching the adults,then the little kids and then everyone joining in the dancing.Made it to bed at around 10.30pm.

21st Catriona helped to make breakfast of fried bread, my efforts were pretty dismal at first. David helped out by looking after the toddler who is just learning to walk and didn't want to be left alone.Back at the boat by 8am and off to the floating Uros Islands.When we arrived the women of the island we visited gave us a demonstration of how the islands are created and how they batter for food etc on the mainland. We were shown inside their houses and given the opportunity to purchase some of their wears. Before we left we were taken on a trip on one of thier reed boats around thier little island and past their trout farm. It was alot of fun. We arrived back in Puno around 12pm where it was back to the hotel for a shower and then off to the internet place to update the blog once more.